Bruges, A Medieval Town In Belgium

Hello Everyone. 

I'm back at my blogging desk once again after dealing with some medical issues and very glad to be back traveling and sharing it with you.  The California saga will continue in a while, but today I shall tell you about our recent trip to Bruges in Belgium.

We traveled from St. Pancras Station, London by Eurostar to Brussels and from there by local train to Bruges.

This medieval town was untouched during both World Wars.  The buildings date from the 13th-15th centuries when Bruges was a center for the cloth trade.  The houses line the narrow cobbled streets that are perfect for wandering, window shopping and stopping for coffee or beer at an outdoor café.  The beers are fantastic.  I especially like the cassis or black currant beer and on a rather hot afternoon I had a pineapple beer that was like drinking ambrosia.  Scott's favorite was Bruges Zot brewed by the only brewery right in Bruges. The De Halve Maan  brewery has tours through the brewery, even up on the roof to see the town and where they cooled the beer in the old days.   You'll get a token for a sample too.
Laces of amazing intricacy and fine quality and tapestries are still made in Belgium.  They are such wonderful examples of artistry and unique mementos of this trip.


The Market Square,

as you can see is the center of activity with buses and carriages skirting half the perimeter.  The Government Palace and Post Office buildings are on one side and the statue of Jan Breidel and Pieter de Coninck, both involved in securing independence from France for the Low Counties. 

The square is dominated by the Belfort with its octagonal belfry and carillon singing out to the town every quarter hour.  17th century houses with main floor restaurants line the other two sides of the square.  Although the fixed prices are somewhat higher than those away from the center, the atmosphere and charm of the square at night is worth the extra.

We found our stay very relaxing because there were few vehicles, many people were walking and the clip-clop of horses hoofs when the carriages passed was charming.  A tour of the town was 36 Euros and a great way to see the sights.  One of our favorites was the park and buildings the Minnewater.  The horses are watered and rested here, so we walked across the bridge to the park and the Begijnhof that was the home of lay sisters  founded in 1245. 

The atmosphere was peaceful - quite delightful.  The lake and adjacent canal is populated by ducks and apparently the swans have been here since 1448. 

The highlight of our visit was the canal boat tour.  When you go to Bruges don't miss it.  Seeing a town from the water always gives a different and yet interesting perspective. 

Our guide spoke in 4 languages: German, French, English and Flemish for the  members of the tour.  Most Belgians speak these languages and Dutch as well.  Here is a short video so you can come along in the boat with us to enjoy the ride.

The tour gives a good view of the buildings and sights particular to Bruges. 

In Northeast Bruges

St John's Hospital Building

By the Way When you go to Brussels make sure you have a .50 Euro coin with you because that is the cost of using the washroom at Midi Station.

Fabric of Philadelphia

As you know, I usually write about California, but we go other places too; this blog is about Philadelphia.

The Roberto Capucci exhibition of Art into Fashion at the Philadelphia Museum of Art is spectacular.  If you can get to see it before it closes on June 5th, you will not be disappointed. Many of  Capucci's designs are sculptures of exquisite fabrics, fabulous colors and stunning textures.   The exhibition is breathtaking.

We took this museum shuttle to the Perelman Building to see the Chagall exhibition.  Another beautiful building with some of Chagall's work we had not seen previously.

Philadelphia is a beautiful city with varied and interesting architecture, both classical and modern.

 This grand boulevard, Benjamin Franklin Parkway is  lined with the flags of all nations, has fountains and statues in the median and leads to Philadelphia Museum of Art and the museum district with the Rodin Museum, Barnes Collection and the Childrens Museum which are all housed in magnificent buildings.  The purple fountain is in John F. Kennedy Plaza.

Fairmont Park sprawls through the museum district all landscaped with rocks and plants, flowers and open parkland for walking, running and various team sports.

I can recommend a ride on the Phlash trolley through this area and back to Penn's Landing on the Delaware River.  A great way to see the city for $2 a ride.

 By the way
It's easy to get around Philadelphia by trolley. subway or Phlash trolley in the summer season.  The cost is $2 a trip or 2 tokens for $3.10

Avila Beach

Avila Beach is located just north of Pismo Beach off Hwy 101.  This picturesque beach town has a long beautiful  beach, harbor with piers, a promenade, beachfront shops, restaurants, hotels, condos, fresh fish available on the San Luis Bay pier and a Farmers' Market from April to September on Fridays from 4-8 pm on the promenade.

It is sublime place for a stroll with an ice cream cone, a drink at Mr Ricks, lunch at Custom House or the Hula Hut (buy some fudge to take home, which will conjure sweet memories).

Free trolley rides on the weekends will take you the Avila Valley Barn and hot springs, then on to your hotel in Shell Beach.

Avila Beach is sheltered from the northeast winds by Port San Luis so that it Avila the warmest of the local beaches.

The wineries are another highlight of the town.  Wood, Alapay. Avila Wine and Roasting Co. and Morovino Wines are all in Avila.  Spend a laid back afternoon sampling the wonderful California wines and food and wine pairings at Morovino during their many special events.

By the Way
If you are on the Central Coast in May, the Annual California Festival of Beers is held at the Avila Beach Golf Club  at the end of May.

Pismo Beach and Shell Beach - Things To Do

Pismo and Shell Beaches occupy two bays between Avila Beach and Grover Beach to the south.  These are laid-back ocean side communities that straddle Hwy 101.There are a host of things to do.  In February the Monarch butterflies settle here in a eucalyptus grove;

for shoppers there is an outlet mall on Five Cities Drive with a California information center;  in downtown Pismo visit the famous Tomasko saltwater taffy shop; taste a variety of local wines at Vino Versato;  watch the surfers on Pismo Beach near the pier, snap photos of the water birds: gulls, grebes and red-billed oystercatcher; play frisbee on the beach: walk and enjoy the sun on your face, the breeze in your hair and the sparkling water; have lunch at an ocean front restaurant near the pier or overlooking the bluffs at Pelican Point where you can see the pelicans glide by in formation.

In Shell Beach you can walk along the cliffs near Dinosaur Park;


kayak in the bay;

have a massage; keep fit at the Pismo Beach Athletic Club for $10/day or buy 5 passes for $35, take your coffee and muffin to the bluffs;

see the impressive selection of exotic beers at the liquor store, shop for food at the grocery store or at DePalo's fine food shop.

We spent an evening of absolute hilarity at Comedy Night at the Spyglass Hotel and swayed to the music at the Wednesday Night Jazz at the SeaVenture from 6-9. For a romantic treat stay in one of their beach front rooms and enjoy the hot tub on the balcony, the thick terry robes and have your breakfast while overlooking the blue Pacific.


By the way:  The San Luis Obispo Tribune lists what is happening each day and every Thursday the New Times gives a more extensive variety the week's happening and is available at no cost in many shops.

By the Way - Hwy 101 south cont'd

Continuing south on Hwy 101 after San Juan Bautista the land flattens at Salinas to a broad plain between the coastal mountains and Pinnacles National Monument to the east. The mountains are the remains of an ancient volcano. 

The Salinas River Valley has mile after mile of market gardens and grape vines.  We have driven through when cherry trees are blooming and strawberries are beginning to produce their succulent red bounty.  Strawberries are a special treat because back in Canada we won't see local strawberries until the end of June.

Nearing Paso Robles the coastal range is closer and dotted with California oaks.  I call them broccoli trees because they resemble broccoli florets. 

The vineyards are plentiful and Paso Robles is famous for Zinfandel.  The Zin Festival is in March and the Wine Festival is in May.

The spectacular scenery of the Cuesta Pass (elevation 1549 ft) affords a dramatic entrance to San Luis Obispo, a beautiful small city we will come back to.  But now we are anxious to get to our destination near Pismo Beach.  Hwy 101 dips down by the exits to Avila Beach and then rises and turns left, which gives us our first view of the Pacific Ocean glistening in the afternoon sun.  

We're here in paradise once more.

By the way: There are no service centers, so if you need a break along the way there is a Starbucks in Soledad or the Firehouse Coffee Shop at the Canal St exit in King.

By the Way - Hwy 101 south

We, Scott and I, have enjoyed the Central Coast of California so much in the past 6 years; I thought I'd share my stories and Scott's pictures with you so that you can enjoy it too - virtually and/or actually.

We fly to San Francisco, rent a car and head south.  Hwy 101 runs through San Mateo, Palo Alto, San Jose and then it gets really interesting.  The mountains are many shades of green from the freshest spring green to the deepest forest green.  Sometimes, depending on the season, they are covered with wildflowers, yellow, mauve or the brilliant mango-orange of California poppies.  The colors are a real treat after leaving a landscape in southern Ontario that is white and grey. Sometimes I find the abundance of color overwhelms my senses and my eyes well up with tears at the beauty of these dramatic landscapes. 

Near Hwy 156 to the Monterey Peninsula, there is a steep descent, tunnel-like, lined with eucalyptus trees.  I always roll down the windows to savor their distinctive smell.  We are here; this really is California!

If you want to break your journey and do some sightseeing you can turn onto Hwy 156 east towards Hollister.  In San Juan Bautista  the mission is a well-maintained parish church dating from 1797 (http://www.oldmissionsjb.org/). The town has the atmosphere of an old California country settlement.  El Camino Real (Hwy 101) is the route that the Spanish priests took in the 1700's to establish churches and settlements throughout California.

By the way:  we rent a car from and agency in San Francisco, which reduces the cost considerably.  A taxi to SF costs about $40 and the BART costs just over $8 per person from the Embarcadero to the airport.

By the Way - San Francisco

Scott and I were on the move again to Toronto where I was chatting with a friend about our recent travels. She asked me if four days would be enough time for her first time in San Francisco. So for those of you who would like a few days in SanFran, let me tell you some favorite things we have done.

After dropping off the car in downtown we walked to Powell St. to catch a cable car - something we had never done before.  For a $5 fare, just that one big step up onto the car will take you back 100 years. The cars are gorgeous with blond oak seats, brass accoutrements, a conductor in charge of riders and a driver. The trip is relaxed because the car stops on the flat cross-streets to let people on and off; then the driver has to connect an apparatus to the cable to pull the car up to the next street. Try and get a seat facing the street for the maximum in sightseeing. Make sure you go to the end of the line at Bay and Mason Sts to watch the cable car drive onto the turntable and then be turned manually before the trip back up the hill. 

Fisherman's Wharf and the Embarcadero is two blocks further along on Mason. There's a lot to see: Alcatraz Island, sailing boats, ducks and the Bay bridge to Oakland. Multitudes of people walk, ride bikes, take pictures, stop for an ice cream cone or just sit in the sun amongst the flowers.

 This time we rode the streetcar, $2/adult, to Market Street and the Ferry Building. The row of sturdy palm trees across from the Ferry Building delight me because they are so symbolic of California for me. The Ferry building has many and varied food shops selling artisan cheeses, meats antiques related to food, modern kitchen goods and a wine tasting shop. From the restaurants you can look out onto the harbor or the Embarcadero where the bustle is constant with cyclists, strollers with their dogs and children and commuters leaving the ferry to catch the streetcar for home.

By the way: From the Embarcadero stop on the BART on Market St you can get to the airport in half an hour.  I enjoy reading books that are set where I am traveling.  If you like mysteries, Laurie R. King's Kate Martinelli series take place in San Francisco.